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Virginia Nicholson (granddaughter of Vanessa Bell, one of the pivotal figures of the unconventional, but influential "Bloomsbury Group" in the first half of the 20th century) has described it as a "curious slippery adjective"

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Beyond the on-the-nose garments, Matrepierre played with surrealism further, proposing "constructions that defy the usual norms and codes of clothing," featuring off-axis lines or collars that meld into the sleeves